THE ANADYR is equipped with front and rear compartments, foam/fiberglass bulkheads and rubber hatch lids. The front hatch opening is 10" in diameter and the oval rear hatch is 18" X 11". Equipped with a ergonomic seat which can be slightly re-positioned forward or back. The rear cockpit rim is dropped to prevent the furnished backrest from collapsing under the rear deck.
This boat has a low profile, it tracks very straight, and turns easily on its beam ends. It's fairly stable, relatively light, and handles beautifully with no need for rudder or skeg. It is equipped with lifelines, paddle groove w/elastic tie-downs, crossed deck elastics, carrying toggles, and is an outstanding boat for ambitious beginners, intermediates, and experts. This is a round bottom kayak designed for speed, and rough water and beginners must overcome its low initial stability. The low initial stability is compounded by a heavy paddler. At paddler weights of 200 lbs. or less this kayak is relatively stable; at paddler weights over 200 lbs. the initial stability suffers. The seat can be lowered which will lower the center of gravity and adding cargo weight will also improve the initial stability. (See instructions at the end of this page to improve initial stability.) The secondary stability is excellent. This kayak wants to go straight, and fast turns should be negotiated on its beam ends. It is fitted with a rudder attachment at the stern - but a rudder is neither required or recommended.
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Specs: 17.55' X
21.25" Weight 50 lbs. Max. Cap. 286 lbs......$1,250.00 |
Brand New scratch & dents Older models with Henderson hatches, scuffed, repaired etc....$895.00
Brand New Scuffed models with Kajak Sport hatches.....$1225.00
The cockpit is 26.5" long x 17" wide and is keyhole shaped with built-in thigh grips. It allows easy entry with excellent bracing. This kayak is furnished with a semi-comfortable fully battened removable backrest.
SUITABLE for ambitious beginners, intermediates and experts. Sea Kayaker magazine (Oct. '96) says "This is a very well designed hull that performs admirably in a variety of conditions. It is fast and stable " "Loaded or unloaded this boat performed...it simply went where I pointed the thing." "I would not hesitate to paddle it in challenging conditions." "The Anadyr was designed to be a fast, seaworthy, coastal touring kayak...it meets these objectives."
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INITIAL STABILITY CAN BE IMPROVED BY LOWERING THE CENTER OF GRAVITY, BUT PRIOR TO LOWERING THE SEAT, REMOVE THE SEAT (4 BOLTS) AND PADDLE WHILE SITTING ON THE BOTTOM OF THE KAYAK. IF YOU FEEL THAT THERE IS AN IMPROVEMENT IN HANDLING, THEN PROCEED TO LOWER THE SEAT AS FOLLOWS:
For the purposes of these instructions, the seat mounts that hang down from the cockpit rim will be called the FIBERGLASS HANGERS. The two ears that stick up from the seat will be called the SEAT SUPPORTS. The outside of the seat support has a notch that accommodates the fiberglass hanger, and it is held in place by two bolts.
SHAPING THE SEAT
Use a small disc sander, or a rough file, or a piece of plywood with 40 or 60 grit sandpaper glued to it. The seat is made of plastic foam and is easy to shape. Round the bottom of the seat by grinding off the outside corners and edge of the two rectangular runners on the seat bottom. Your effort should be to make the seat conform to the bottom of the boat, thereby gaining a lower seating position. You can put strips of paper under the seat while holding it in place to see where to remove material. When the strips bind, take off material at that location. When you reach the point where the edges of the holes in the fiberglass hanger are showing at the top of the seat support (when the seat is in place) you have probably lowered the seat as far as it will go (about 7/8"). After shaping the seat, set it in the bottom of the boat with the seat support inside the fiberglass hanger. Press it down than take a knife or sharp screwdriver and scribe the fiberglass hanger using the top of the seat support for a guide. Now a strip at the bottom of the fiberglass hanger is cut off using a dremel tool and a small REINFORCED cutoff wheel. This can also be done with a hacksaw blade. If you put the seat back in place and press it down, the fiberglass hanger should sit right on the top edge of the seat (the seat support). To mount the seat use a 1/8" aluminum plate 3" X 4". The 4" side will sit in the notch near the top of the seat support. Drill the aluminum so that it can be screwed to the seat support using the original holes. (I had the aluminum plates made with the 2 holes already drilled for $5 ea.) Now fit the seat with the fiberglass hanger inside (on top of) the alu. plate. The plate ends up behind the fiberglass and the fiberglass butts up against the top edge of the seat support. You can now drill two more holes thru the fiberglass hanger and alu. plate to fasten the whole thing in place. The web belts for the seat back seem to fit best if left fastened in the original place.
From now on, do not step on the drink holder....it may break off since it is higher than it was previously and has no support underneath.